Milan Fashion Week: The Italian stalwart takes a stab at rebellion

Of “the big four” fashion weeks, Milan has long boasted heritage but often pales in comparison to the youthful spirit of London, the high-octane energy of New York or the grandeur of Paris. This season, however, there was a hint of something new in the air — and it smelled like rebellion.

While there were no overt political statements on the runways in the lead up to Sunday’s general election, the country’s creative class may well have been influenced by the looming reality of a far-right party on the cusp of victory.

Gaetano Pesce, the celebrated Italian architect and furniture designer who created Bottega Veneta’s vibrant set on Saturday night, issued a blunt statement ahead of the label’s show: “This space is a tribute to diversity,” he said of his poured resin runway and hundreds of bespoke, multicolored chairs.

“It is about the human being; we are all different. People who say we are all the same — f**k them! We are all different and this is our defining quality — otherwise, we are just a copy.”

Days before the Bottega Veneta show, Diesel attempted to democratize its normally exclusive event by breaking with tradition and inviting the public to attend the show, hosting a whopping 5,000 people of which 3,000 were non-industry guests.

And, in a devil-may-care-move, Dolce & Gabbana’s ballsy, self-referencial video of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti was defiant, to say the least.

A video of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of pasta played as models strutted the runway at Dolce & Gabbana. Credit: Dolce & Gabbana

Stefano Gabbana, Kim Kardashian and Domenico Dolce during the finale of the Dolce & Gabbana show. Credit: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images

The last time Dolce & Gabbana used spaghetti as a prop, in November 2018, the brand found itself facing widespread accusations of racism. The promotional videos in question, which showed an Asian model struggling to eat the pasta with chopsticks, received so much backlash that the brand was forced to cancel its planned show in China.

Four years on, and the familiar scene was replayed — with a few significant edits — at the opening of the house’s Spring-Summer 2023 show. Before models walked out, a black and white film showed Kardashian tucking into a plate of spaghetti with a wry smile on her face. Was it a moment of “sorry not sorry” or an attempt to poke fun at the brand’s previous missteps? We may never know but it was a rare ackowedgemet of a controversy that the label has remained largely quiet about.

This was Bally’s first collection with Rhuigi Villaseñor at the helm. Credit: Marco Mantovani/Getty Images

Elsewhere, designer debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo and Bally also breathed new energy into the week despite mixed reviews from critics.

Rebellion involves risk and not all risks paid off. From obnoxiously delayed shows to the numerous models who fell victim to the slip-and-slide that was Roberto Cavali’s runway, the wheels came off on a number of occasions, but there was still plenty to celebrate throughout the week.

Belle of the ball: Bottega Veneta

Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta was the undisputed triumph of the week. Combining womenswear and menswear, the elegant, thoughtful collection was filled with almost every item you might need in a wardrobe, from jeans and tanks to suits and gorgeous cocktail dresses. Repeating a technical trick he first played with his debut collection, Blazy put Kate Moss in seemingly simple jeans and flannel shirt that were actually printed leather. The show’s final look, a bright turquoise, heavily fringed dress, had the crowd cheering before the models came back out for the customary parade.

Bottega Veneta’s set was a “tribute to diversity,” according to designer Italian architect Gaetano Pesce. Credit: Bottega Veneta

Kate Moss appeared in the Bottega Veneta show wearing leather trompe l’oeil pieces designed to look like flannel and denim. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images

The final look from the Bottega Veneta catwalk was a turquoise fringed dress. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images

Gothic goddesses at Versace

Another notable highlight was delivered by Donatella Versace. “I have always loved a rebel,” she said in her show notes. “A woman who is confident, smart and a little bit of a diva.” The moody collection was a goth girl’s dream, in hues of purple and black, featuring lingerie-inspired mini dresses, fringed leather and lace-detailed veils. In a subversive move at the end, Paris Hilton stormed down the runway in sequinned fuchsia channeling the look and swagger of a rebel Barbie.

Paris Hilton closed the Versace Spring-Summer 2023 show. Credit: Rosdiana Ciaravolo/WireImage/Getty Images

Bella Hadid made an appearance in a gothic purple veil and corset. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Mesh, leather and lace detailing were pillars of Versace’s new collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Millennial cool at Fendi

Fashion’s obsession with Y2K is still going strong and Kim Jones’ latest collection — featuring Gen Z-friendly cargo trousers in leather and silk, fluffy platform heels in highlighter green and leather mesh dresses — only cemented this notion further. That said, a solid base layer of neutral tones offered plenty of options for women in search of more classic, grown-up styles.

Fendi’s new collection was full of neutral tones. Credit: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images

Acerbic-colored fluffy platforms stood out against classic flesh-toned pieces. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Fendi’s new season included elevated silk cargo trousers. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Inflatables for inflation at Moschino

Those seeking escapism can always rely on Jeremy Scott’s Moschino designs for a sweet moment of levity. This season was no different, though his playful collection did take its inspiration from darker realities. Speaking to CNN Style backstage, Scott said he was thinking about global concerns, such as the war in Ukraine, economic inflation and the ongoing assault on women’s rights, when creating the looks. His inflatable designs were an attempt to fight the heavy mood with literal buoyancy. “There’s so much negativity that we have to process,” he said, “but we must hold space for joy.”

Moschino’s designs focused on escapism and levity. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images

The inflatables were a literal take on Scott’s desire to lift the global mood. Credit: Justin Shin/Getty Images

Prada powers ahead

The partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons hit its stride this season. The pair’s latest collection showed a new symbiosis between the two highly regarded designers, who have been working together since Simons was made co-creative director of Prada two years ago. A series of delicate, paperlike looks were utterly captivating. And for anyone lamenting the demise of skinny jeans, the numerous narrowly cut trousers signaled you may not have long to wait before they are back in rotation.

Prada unveiled a classic collection focused on refined basics. Credit: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images

Looks fashioned out of paper-like fabric added an ethereal element to the collection. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images

Keeping scrolling for more from Milan Fashion Week.

“I want to bring Missoni into 2022 while still respecting the past.”

Filippo Grazioli

Filippo Grazioli’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection for Missoni was a tight edit of less than 50 pieces. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

Filippo Grazioli was appointed creative director of Missoni in March this year. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

Looks were inspired by the Missoni archive, featuring the house’s iconic zig-zag prints in body-con cuts. Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

It was a gender-inclusive runway at Jil Sander, who combined menswear and womenswear for the first time in five years. Credit: Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images

Metallic motifs were everywhere throughout Jil Sander Spring-Summer 2023. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

A detail shot of the footwear in Jill Sander’s latest collection. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

“Placing Swiss craft and European art of living in harmony with my own American story, I’ve called this collection ECDYSIS1 — a reset and a celebration of radical luxury.”

Rhuigi Villaseñor